1st July - To Victoria Falls.

The baboons were very stirred up this morning, the dominant male running about establishing order. This was because the troupe had suffered a death last night. The lions had come in the night and killed one of them. We heard the shrieking screams from our beds. Very exciting. Raina also heard an elephant fight.

Today was very much an in transit day, but we started off with a quick stop off to look at some monkeys from the boat. They are adorable. And we also saw our first decent sized croc. Like a proper sized one, which actually made Sarah happy as it confirmed that her fears and flat refusal to touch the water were warranted, there being monster crocs in the river.

As, I mentioned, today was in transit as we took the speedboat from the houseboat to the Namibian exit border, then across to the Botswanan entry, then a bus to the Botswanan exit and then to the Zimbabwe entry point. Zimbabwe immigrations is interesting in that you can not apply in advance for a visa, but need to buy it there on the spot. The queues were not short and not particular ordered. It seemed to be pushiest tour guide wins. We then let the Melbournian couple that had been on the houseboat with us jump in front of us, as they had a plane to catch and were running late.

Turns out this was an astounding act of fate, as the people in the line behind them were old friends. The people we sold Donnelly (one of Sarah’s ponies) to and who lived in Yass. Much changed with time, children grown close to eight years. But good old friends, at the Zimbabwe immigrations desk. Weird.

So we left there and headed off to Elephant Camp at Victoria Falls, where we were again going to be slumming it in a tent. We pulled up and two staff members were standing in the drive with wine glasses of iced tea waving. A hoard of men came to carry all out luggage down and we were ushered into the magnificent common area. Which technically is a tent. Though, it is mores then 50 meters long, 15 wide, stunningly furnished, complete with a bar and a deck that overlooks the watering hole at which we saw Kudu and Elephants at within the first two hours. We were liquored up and given a wonderful lunch. And ode to joy, given access to a decent internet connection. Fist time in a long time. News from home, time to update this blog a bit and for Sarah to get her uni results. (Two Distinctions and a Credit Andy, we thought you might like to know J).

And speaking of credit – “Thanks Crackers for sending Andy the blog!!!” And "Thanks" to Sarah Cox for putting up with the Shitty-Kitty!!

It was then down to our house – cannot call it a tent.  About 15 meters by 5ish.  Three room – massive bathroom, bedroom and sitting room. Plus an entry and a huge deck with a spa.  Told you we would be roughing it in tents.

Victoria Falls is basically an activity center built around the Falls.  You pretty well arrive  - hand over your credit card and bank account then go have fun! Much fun to be had in the next few days. 

But it was time for bed. Listening to "The smoke that thunders" from our beds.

30th June - On the House Boat

An African sunrise, across the Chobe National Park, greeted us through the bedroom window. As the sun rose higher the Baboons again swarmed to the beach to enjoy the morning sun. Elephants and Impala began to meander down and it all began again.

Our selected morning activity today was to go Tiger Fishing.  We know that this was one of the options, so were looking forward to it. Then someone showed us a picture of a Tiger Fish. They are the ultimate trophy fish in Africa and look like a cross between a Piranha and a Tiger.  Teeth much too big and savage then any fish has any right to have.

Raina caught one very small fish, though its teeth were vicious and best avoided. Sarah was the champion of the day, catching four. Her last a fairly decent sized one. 2Kg to be precise.

During lunch our view of Elephant Bay got entertaining. A large herd of elephants came down to drink as well as a herd of Impala. The elephants must have bigger eyes then stomachs because they seem to think that there is not enough water to go around and get rather territorial about the river (which is massive). The elephants had split into two groups at the riverbank and the Impala were making mad dashes to get to the space between the elephants to get a drink. And they really were in a bit of danger. The elephants were chasing them, swatting at them with their trunks, running at them with flapping ears and even trumpeting. Like full blown classic elephant trumpets. 

We then backed away from our mooring and headed up stream for another few hours. After our arrival it was back into the speedboat for another game drive.

This trip showed us Monkeys, more Baboons, and even a den of four Porcupines. They are so big and are very interesting. Being huge rodents they are huge pack rats and will steal whatever they can. There was a den of then at Ant’s and they would sneak up at night and steal shoes (but only one), cans, cameras etc. On a horse ride we found a wine bottle at least one kilometer from the camp- taken there by a porcupine.

A small troupe of Baboons (only about 200 in this group) had come down for the evening so we went and watched.  At times the boat was only two meters from them. Having a sundowner drink, sitting in a boat, watching Baboons – awesome.

The sun was almost gone so we started heading in – that is until we saw a herd of Elephants crossing the river.

Elephants swimming from Namibia to Botswana – without passports. It was amazing. In a neat little elephant line. Big ones up to their shoulders, small ones walking on the bottom with their snorkels up, then bobbing up and down, swimming with their trunks raised just a little to use as a snorkel still.  Once again we got really close, which was fine in deep water, but as they reached shallow water a big girl turned around a swore at us. Ears up and all!  Sarah who was sitting on the nose of the boat made a hasty retreat to a back seat.

It was magic!!!!!!!!

Back to the boat for a fun night with the six other guests on board. Raina stated that she liked ‘Youth Hostels for grown ups”.

29^th June, The House Boat - Botswana and Namibia.

This morning we elected to go for a bush walk across Impalila Island, Namibia. And suprise, surprise we were prepared for a walk! Anton, took us through his village, to the local clinic and the school and to Impalila Stadium - the soccer ground attached to the school. They are hoping to be a contender for the next World Cup. Probably not, as it was 100 x 40 meter area of flat rocky sand! As well as a few more villages. :P

We got to see how the houses were made – using crushed termite mounds and the fields they plough and grow maize in during the wet season. Most of the men work in the tourist industry and the women stay in the villages with the kids.

The climax of the walk was a 2000 year old Baobab tree. It was amazing. So massive. Sarah climbed half way up – which was extremely difficult. They had put climbing spikes into the wood but were set for a very tall man – to stop kids climbing it. And the surface of the tree was like a polished table tap – so smooth and shiny. Nothing to grip onto or get your toes into.  If you climb to the top you can see four countries. Namibai, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Maybe you would get to see them as the helicopter comes to take you to hospital. This tree was huge.

It was then back to the lodge to move to the river boat – Ichobezi Moli. Moli means ‘the wife of the chief’. Anton loaded us into the speedboat and took us up to Moli. We then said farewell to Anton, a brilliant guide.

Moli is a four bedroom houseboat. 18 meters by 8 meters. She holds a maximum of eight passengers and has six staff. She also has four speedboats - one for each room. Again all is luxury.

Down stairs were the bedrooms with ensuites. Up stairs is a huge room with lounges, the bar and a big dinning table – all enclosed in retractable glass doors. Then the deck with the spa tub and sun lounges.

We had lunch then headed off up river – in our house boat.   We  motored for a few hours seeing magnificent sights.

After lunch we opted for another game drive.

Again we saw so much. We went back to the lion’s buffalo. 48 hours after the kill was a faceless skull, a clean rib cage and a hide and the bones of one back leg. The other back leg was gone as were the lions. 

We sat in our boat, drinks in hand, watching two giraffes parade around in front of the enormous red sun as it slipped into the horizon. We both burst our singing the opening number for the lion king.

Our houseboat had run up onto a sand bar and moored for the night at a spot called ‘Elephant Bend’, a regular watering spot for many animals. As we were watching Elephants have their evening drink a troupe of Baboons came down. Not just any troupe.  A troupe of between 400 and 500. They were like ants swarming down out of the brush onto the beach. Big males got into huge fights, teenagers wrestled, babies rode on their mother backs, sitting up beautifully. We even saw the victor of one fight, grab a female by the tail, drag her over, mate her then sit and flea pick with her. At times we were only a few meters from them. We stayed until it was almost totally dark then when back to Moli.

More great food then bed. We slept with window open and all night could hear Hippos blowing, baboons screeching and at one time hear something being eaten. Raina’s bed was up against the window and she was very careful not to fall out of bed to that side.

28^th Fly to Kasane then to The Caprivi Strip, Namibia

We had a nice relaxed morning where we went to the café with free wi-fi to post a few pictures. Then remembered we had almost run out of Botswani Pula (money).  The word Pula means rain – and as rain is their most important thing, they named the money after it. 

We scratched up all of the Pula (850) we had and worked out we could afford two egg and bacon breakfasts and a coffee (as Sarah is still trying to find a decent cup). When the bill came it was about 320 pula – about $4.50.  We had food and change.

The flight to Kasane was nice and uneventful. They did give bag of BilTong as their snacks. We arrived in Kasane to be met and collected by our pick-up.  As we were driving from the airport we saw baboons walking into town and where struck by how much the area looked like the Africa we had expected.

We went to Botswana Immigration to leave the country and head over to Namibia.  The office was a tiny building where we did our paper work. It was then walking out through the wire gate, down a dirt track to a jetty and into a speedboat, to meet Anton, our guide. The boat took us about a kilometer down river where we jumped out, with our passports, and were pointed up a rocky bush track. “Up the hill and turn left at the Baobab tree.” It was about a kilometre inland and was a tiny tiny building. So we were officially in Namibia. Back to the speedboat and further down stream on the mighty Chobe River. 

The river narrowed to a thin rocky section above the rapids as we pulled into the Ichingo River Lodge. This was one of the places where we were roughing it. Sleeping in a tent. And you should have seen the tent!!!

About 4 meters by 10 meters – double skin, on a timber platform with a large front deck, full bathroom, electricity (when the generator was on) beds and wardrobes, bed lamps, etc. We ran around our room oh-ing and ahhh-ing, then went down for lunch.  The main common areas were built around the edge of the bank, and the rocky, fast flowing section just up from the rapids. The sound was fantastic. After a lovely lunch it was “what would you like to do now?” time.

We opted to go on a game drive – in a speedboat. Sensational. We went back up river into the Chobe National Park.  Boarded by the Chobe river and the massive floodplains. Three hours later our heads were nearly exploding.

Elephants – in their hundreds – marching along in their lines; standing out grazing. Some in herds of 40; some in two’s and threes.

Hippos – in the water eating; in the shallows sleeping. On the banks grazing; way back in the flat areas grazing.

Puku, Red (lychee-something-we-cant remember quite yet), Impala,

Fish Eagles catching fish, Kingfishers catching fish

Crocs, Water monitors, and more.

The day before we arrived some of the people from our lodge were out watching a group of five young lions. The lions came across a (stupid) lone Buffalo on the shore and decided to catch it. They stalked it and attacked. Of course they were not skilled enough to bring it down, being only young.  After a while with two lions hanging off each side and chewing, the 5^th lion ran away and got Mum.  Mum and a pride mates raced down and make the kill.

We went up to the kill site to see if any lions were around. We could see three that were sleeping. After a while one got up and went down to feed. The stomach of the Buffalo was ripped out and she (the lion) crawled inside, up to her ribs, and fed. We sat watching in total awe. How amazing to watch a lion feed.  The trees were covered in Vultures waiting their turn. A few brave ones came down to try their luck when the lion had had enough, but were hastily moved on.

Suddenly more lions arrived. We sat there watching nine lions feeding!!!!!!!! The male didn’t come down but the girls did. They were so magnificent. Healthy and fat looking, with shinning coats. 

And this was only Day 0ne in the Caprivi Strip, Namibia.

It was then back to the lodge of nibbles and drinks, then a three-course dinner and a few more drinks.  Ralph, the owner came to join us for dinner and entertained us well.

Sarah especially enjoyed a few drink and was then very entertaining ridding the tent (if we can call it that) of mossies by bouncing around on the bed, clapping them.

27^th June - Around Maun

After a good 12 hours in bed we finally got up and set out in search of breakfast and an internet connection. We went to a very phallic building and giggled in a mature way. The coffee still sucks in this continent. L lol.

We then headed out for a drive to the kfvbkhfebj/svbk/f/bkj in the Kalahari dessert. Sarah was driving and doing a swell job of avoiding the people, cattle, donkeys, dogs and goats on the road. Pretty much the whole way the road was lined with Horn Bill birds feeding, and Sarah dreaded the prospect of hitting one. She didn’t but we did pass one mushed up little pile with a banana shaped beak protruding from it. ZAaaaaaaazuuuuuuuu Noooooooooooooo!

Then we had to pass through a Foot and Mouth disease control area where we got stopped by police, had to get out and walk through a puddle of disinfectant (even had to do the same to any extra shoes we had) and then drive through a bigger one. Very exciting.

We passed donkey carts heading down the road, people on donkeys and on foot herding their cattle across the road. Many cows, goats and donkeys crossing the road of their own accord.

And then we hit the potholes, holes all over the road so deep you could hide a goat in them. And so many that there wasn’t really much you could do to avoid them.

The patterning on the road also did something very trippy to your eyes after a while; Sarah noticed that after she had been looking at the road for a while, when she would look at the speedo, her vision would warp. The speedo and dashboard looked like it was breathing, moving back and forward and bending. Tripy! Raina also noticed the same when she took over the driving.

We then came back and went to a café for lunch and to await our scenic flight over the Okavango Delta.

Then we flew over the OKAVANGO DELTA.  And cannot think of enough superlatives to say……………..

We saw huge herds of Elephants walking along in single file. A huge mob of Hippos in a giant pool. You could see then blowing as they surfaced, more Elephants, more hippo, many antelope, and the magnificent Delta itself!!!! The photos are not brilliant through the planes windows but the memories are magic.

26^th June -Maun, Botswana

Due to our unplanned longer stay in Maun we had had to make some last minute plans and booked on a full day, half and half Mokoro/Boat trip of the Okavango Delta. This commenced with a 60 minute speedboat ride up the river  – and it was utterly freezing! The kind of icy cold wind that makes your forehead ache. And sees you huddled up and struggling to keep your jacket done up tight and your scarf covering your ears. Despite the cold we managed to have a good time because we got to see some pretty great stuff. Most importantly Monkeys! Which set Sarah to screaming, “Monkey, Monkey, Monkey!” This alarmed the German couple on the boat with us. Once they realized what it was though, they proceeded to make fun of Sarah, mimicking her tone and pitch.

We finally arrived at the spot where we were to hop into the Mokoro, a terrifyingly shallow and unstable looking dugout canoe type boat with a man standing on the back poling it around the river. It is a bit like a Venetian Gondola, though much less substantial and smaller.

Once over the fear of imminent death because of capsizing and consumption by crocodile, we realized that it was in fact an incredibly relaxing mode of transport. Sitting down with complete silence but for the ambient noise and gentle splashing of water as the driver poled us along. As we were poling thorough the Okavango Delta Raina keep looking David Attenburogh and his film crew.

And most excellently, we saw a *drum roll please*… … … Hippo!

It was huge, even from far away (as was pleasing, given the tiny boat we were in) and by just being about to see its head it is plain to see how big they are. It would dive under water and pop up ever few minutes and blow the water out of its nostrils making a loud noise. Louder than any whale.

As we poled away we occasionally heard that noise again, and couldn’t help feel a little anxious that one might be just around a bend or just over those reeds, as we were so low we could not see over many of the reeds. Luckily our driver guides could see as they were standing up. And knew where the deep holes were.

Now I mentioned before that we had booked on a half boat half mokoro day, which is what we expected and had prepared for. So we were a little startled when we pulled up on a bank, were ushered out of the boat and started getting pushed along somewhere. SURPRISE WALK! We were then informed that we were off for an hour and a half walk. Now we had prepared for a day that would start off freezing then warm up, but would be bearable because we were sitting leisurely in a boat. We had also brought enough water to last us through sitting down in a boat all day. Sarah had tights under jeans, and fashion (NOT walking) boots. Now the walk would have been great – if only we had known about it. Did I mention it was a walk through deep, soft sand in boots with a not tiny heel and zero ankle support. Sarah ended up stripping off her jeans (much to everyone else’s shock till they realized she had tights on underneath. In a stroke of genius the walk also took place at midday. In the hottest part of the day. Genius!

On the plus side though we did see a troupe of Baboons, elephants far off across the river, red lechasomething antelope, a semi-aquatic antlope - the Sitatunga, brown antelope, zebra, wildebeest and a lot of tracks.

We think at some point the guides just started making crap up, like that a print the size of say a Labrador was a lion track. Oh great, so we are out walking in lion territory without so much as a stick to protect ourselves? I don’t think so. Or that another track (that was the size of a large antelope or maybe a Wildebeest was a Giraffe track. Hmmm. Or that the Buffalo bones that have been there for three years are still visited by hyenas who still ate them and would take the old bones to the river to soak them so they are soft enough to eat. Lol.

Sarah did have a go at the guide for continuing to walk closer to a herd of Zebra that he was racing after but was driving them away while another group was trying to watch them. The idea of wildlife viewing is not to disturb the animals in order to get the closest look. Oh and the walk was over 2 hours. Would have been amazing if we were prepared for it. We then had a lovely lunch of stale slices of bread with cheap tuna and cheese. :P

We then poled for two hours back the meeting place – just enjoying it. Before the boat driver who took us out in the morning came back to collect us, we spent some time looking around the village the poler’s lived in. Our boat driver turned up with an esky full of drinks. Water, water, water! And beer. Sigh, lovely.

There was a nice guy from Swansea, Wales who had hitchhiked out for a look who wanted a photo of the Aussie girls hooking into the beer. On the way back we saw an absolutely ginormous lizard sunning itself. Well over one meter long.

We went down to another lodge on the riverside and had a great steak looking at the sunset over the Okavando Delta. Sigh.

Again we were in bed before 7.30pm, what grannies!

25^th June – We got bumped!!!!

We woke up at our dodgy hotel, still in a deep depression after leaving Ant’s Hill and went to a very mediocre breakfast.  Before breakfast we took our luggage to the front office and reminded them that we were booked on the 8am shuttle to the airport.  At seven minutes to eight we went to the office to be told –“sorry the bus has gone”. After expressing our disappointment in this, the receptionist pick up the phone then said that the driver would be here soon.  He went and got the bus (from the garage) and ‘drove’ us to the airport. We did over 100ks in 60 zones, up on the verge and at least 100 meters on the wrong side then through the red light.!

We got to the airport, check in and went to do some Duty Free shopping. We arrived at the gate – seven minutes before final boarding to be told “sorry, we have bumped you to the afternoon flight”. 

We told them that this would not do as we had connections etc.  “Sorry, your luggage has been off loaded.  The flight is at 3pm. Go to the transit desk to get boarding passes.”  We pleaded, begged, whimpered. No joy.

We then managed to get a flight with another airline, but Air Botswana could not release our luggage. It would take at least four hour to get it back.  They will send it up on the 3pm flight.  Then we panicked about the no luggage flying without the owner rules and decided to wait. Yah!  Six hours in an airport. Plus we would now arrive in Botswana at 5pm not 11am and had a four-hour road trip to our next port of call. 

So what do you do?  Get lunch and eat it very slowly.  Have a back massage, look at the shops, update your blog, have a foot massage then go and sit at the gate. Sarah bought Rayban – folding – wayfarers!!   It’s very exciting. And of course this flight left late.

So, we decided to change our plans.  We would skip our booked visit to The Kalahari and spend the time in Maun, in the heart of the Okavango Delta. The four hour drive would have taken five in the dark (and would not have been safe) and would only give us one full day there.

We got our car and drove around Maun. It was just like we imagined Africa to be.  One busy main road with things happening everywhere. People walking all over the road, cows wandering around, goats everywhere, chickens and dogs, everyone in really bright colours. Didn’t expect the heaps of donkeys wandering around. Many of the donkeys were tethered together in pairs with a neck rope about 1/2 meter long. Very funny. And the lovely mud huts with thatched roofs.

We got to our accommodation, made of imitation traditional huts. All in a circle around a fire pit.  We watched the Bush Baby’s race around the trees at dusk.  They were a bit smaller than a squirrel but rounder and could leap massive distances and are so fast you could barely see them.  We think they were teleporting.

Just as we were going to go and get some dinner the town lost power. We sat for a while around the fire pit then decided to skip dinner and go to bed. It was 7.30pm after all.