6th July - Garonga
Life is very
regimented at Garonga with zero room for flexibility. They come and knock on your door at 6.15am. You
then need to be at the lodge having a cup of tea by 6.30 to leave at 6.45. No
food, breakfast is latter! That is the way it is!
There are usually
about half a dozen vehicles out form the different lodges in the vicinity and
they all communicate on the radio to talk about what they see. Word came that someone had found a lion
pride. When we got there, there were 13 lions. Two mature lionesses and 11 cubs
– 2 at 10 months (the first litter still travelling with mum), 4 at 6 months
old and 5 at 4 months old. They would
lie in the sun for a while then get up and walk 500meters to a kilometer. Then they would find another lovely sunny
spot and lie down again. Then off they would go again. This happened about six
times. When they would move off, they would all straggle along, some playing,
some staying behind then hurrying to catch up.
They began to
cross a track in front of us. Suddenly one of the adults barked an order and 11
cubs all hit the deck, most in a lovely straight line. The two adults crouched
and went in opposite directions. They circled a herd of Impala that we could
see. We could see the Impala milling around, seeming mostly calm but every now
and then stirring a bit. Many minutes later one of the adults attacked and
everything exploded, Impala were running everywhere and snorting in warning.
The cubs, in their excitement, jumped up to watch, but not one bottom left the
ground. Moments latter a signal must have been given and the cubs stood up,
milling around but still remained in place until the adults returned. They then
headed off having missed the kill.
We had seen lions
hunting! Tick, Brilliant.
We returned to the
lodge for breakfast – really brunch as this place only feeds you twice a day – a
bit strange! As we were sitting there eating our brunch – guess who came to the
waterhole below????
Our 13 lion
buddies!
After brunch some
new guys arrived. A really lovely Mum
and 10yo from Jackson Holes (where we spent Christmas in 2008). They had
arrived but their luggage was still in Washington DC. They went to bed having
flown a long way, including a day in Paris as a stop off. We went out on
afternoon Safari.
We watched a lone
Elephant in a river bed ripping out the roots of a huge tree, growing in the
bank. Then the hippos. In the middle of this Bushvelt was a deep river, fill of
Hippos. We hopped out of the car and walked to the river bank. The guide tried
to make it sound really scary, giving us a huge lecture about hand signals –
this means stop, this means freeze. He loaded the rifle and off we went. By
this stage we were begin to realize that Josiah, our guide was a bit of a
tosser –very taken with the theatrical side of guiding. As if they were going
to take a group of tourists into danger. Just as we were about to walk off a
bug flew into the neck of Jasper, the pommy guy with us. He screeched, jumped
so high and we are sure nearly poo-ed himself. We all, including Jasper,
laughed so hard. The hippos were well below us down and steep bank. There was
not a chance they ever came up here. Totally safe – but great. They did a lot of roaring and blowing. It was
fantastic. The noise is just so loud and deep. Quite amazing.
Another
magnificent sunset was spent at an old Mica mine.
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